Bays
Mountain is a range that extends from the Long Island
on the Holston River in Kingsport, Tennessee to Blount County, Tennessee,
some 115 miles to the southwest. The Cherokee referred to the eastern most
part of the mountain as "Sentinel Point". The first white men to record
seeing the mountain were James Needham and Gabriel Arthur in 1673.
How the mountain acquired
the name "Bays" is unsure. It may have the title from the laurel or rose
bay which abounds on the mountain. Also, the name may have derived from
an early visitor named J. Bays who traveled through the region with Colonel
James Brown and was massacred by the Cherokee. There was also a James Bay
with Dr. Thomas Walker's expedition who received a land grant on or near
Bays Mountain adjacent to Chimney Top Mountain. Several tales have emerged.
One was that the mountain had a Cherokee name that the whites couldn't
pronounce and "Bays" was as close as they could get. Another involves a
bay horse that drowned in near by Horse Creek. A variation on this tale
is that the elusive bay horse hid from the Cherokee on Bays Mountain's
summit to avoid capture.
The first settler possibly
lived on Bays Mountain as early as 1750, ten years before Daniel Boone's
first excursion into the region. The first family known to have lived on
or near Bays Mountain is that of William Robert Hamilton, M.D., who around
1760 owned land in the area of Blair's Gap. This
was patented in England before the Revolutionary War. After the war the
American land office disallowed any such land titles and he thus lost much
of his original holdings. Between 1775 and 1782 several men procured land
grants on the eastern part of the range. Brant Ward Noland, Newton Nowlan,
Benjamin Merritt, Vachel Dillingham were among them. The most productive,
however, were the Goads, John, Margaret, William, Gabriel, and Peter. Other
clans on the Horse Creek side were the Craft, Easley, Anthony and Kain.
On the Holston River side were the Woods, Cloud, Ridley, Bledsoe, Holt,
Ross, and Pryor families.
>>> See Topography Map Overview
Christianville (later
called Kingsport) was a known as "head of navigation" because of the boat
yard built by William King of Saltville, Virginia. The tall trees on
Bays Mountain supplied the long timbers needed to build the flatboats to
carry the pioneers westward.
In 1824 Richard Netherland
purchased 700 acres and by 1855 owned 1,531 acres on the mountain. He kept
it wild and undeveloped for his own sporting use. In 1802 Michael Starr
settled the area now known as Dolan's Gap. This
area was also owned by John Peoples and finally the Dolan family. By 1854
Isaac DePew, a Revolutionary War veteran owned 3000 acres which included
part of Dolen's Gap. In the 1820's Pleasant Creasey also accumulated land
on the mountain and by 1875 the Whetsel family owned most of Creasey's
land. Other land owners during the 1800's were Rogans, Pickens, Hickmans,
Bachmans, Gregg and Steadman families. Until the 1960's numerous families
lived on and around the mountain. These families lived rather isolated
lives and the land remained virtually unchanged until early in the Twentieth
Century.
During the Civil War
most of the people who actually lived on the mountain (with a few exceptions)
were Union sympathizers. The surrounding Sullivan County , however, was
known to be a hot bed of Confederate sympathy. The ridge of the mountain
served as a secret trail from Kingsport to Knoxville. Bays Mountain along
with other highlands offered for many people refuge from the cruel war.
Refugees were not the
only thing hiding on and around Bays Mountain. Evidence abounds that gentlemen
were carrying on the fine art of making distilled spirits. That's right,
Moonshine! Stills have been found, confiscated,
and destroyed as late as the 1960's.
In 1907 a group of businessmen
began buying land on top of the mountain. Their plan was to build a dam
and create a lake which would be the water supply for the future city of
Kingsport. The site was particularly well-suited for this because the formation
of the two parts of the mountain made it possible to only build a small
dam to create the lake, complete with its watershed well protected. In
1914 these men sold the property to the Kingsport Waterworks Corporation.
By that time the property included the entire watershed, 1300 acres.
From 1915 to 1917 a
series of events took place that would forever change the landscape and
the course of history for a part of Bays Mountain. These events also set
the stage for the creation of Bays Mountain Park.
In 1915, trees and buildings
were removed from the area to be covered by the lake. On April 1916 work
began on the
dam. Stone was quarried about a hundred
and fifty feet below the dam itself. The remains of this quarry
has been partially covered by the present park access road. The stone was
hauled to the dam site by teams of mules. A crane
at the spillway, powered by a mule, was used to hoist the stones up
on the dam.
When the dam was completed,
all the property owners were moved out except one woman, who for several
years continued to cultivate a field near the lake. This field is kept
cleared to this day and is used as a wildlife feeding area. Water began
flowing to Kingsport in November of 1916, three months before the city
was incorporated.
During the early years
of the now Eastman Chemical Company, logging took place on and around Bays
Mountain for the purpose of producing wood alcohol. A train
was put into service to haul the logs from the base of the mountain to
the plant itself. The path of the tracks roughly follows the present Reservoir
Road.
>>> See 'Building The Dam' in Photographs
>>> See Topography Map Overview
As the city grew the
reservoir failed to meet the needs of the expanding population. The Holston
River became Kingsport's main source of water, and the use of Bays
Mountain Lake for water supply was discontinued in 1944.
Fortunately, for the
next 25 years some aldermen had the foresight to keep the property for
some aesthetic use, thus having prevented its sale for commercial development.
For many years though, there had been a growing, undefined, but apparent
community interest in the creation of a recreational area for Kingsport
atop Bays Mountain. By Spring of 1965 the question of what should be done
with the city-owned property had reached the Planning Commission. H. Andrew
Scott, hoping to "develop a feeling of appreciation for the beauty of the
mountain throughout the community" published his now famous editorial "A
Project We Should Support" as guest editor of the Kingsport Times News.
With it's publication, many seprate groups and individuals throughout the
area now had a well defined goal.
On June 1, 1965, Mayor
Hugh Rule appointed a three man comittee to study the feasibility of making
Bays Mountain a City Park. Joseph H. Lewis, Dr. Kirk Allen and Karl Goerdel
were appointed. The committee's recommendations were given to the Board
of Mayor and Aldermen on December 8, 1965. $5,000.00 was approved for prelimiary
work. The Bays Mountain Commission was created by Mayor Joseph H. Lewis
on September 5, 1967. It's first members were Merritt Shobe, James C. White,
Karl Goerdel, Harry V. Steadman, and James H.Thornton.
On November 22, 1967
a consultation fee was paid to the National Audubon Society for advice
in setting up the nature preserve. A three man team spent several weeks
early in 1968 studying the 1300 acre mountain site. There report stressed
the site's unique qualities, "It is a self-enclosed watershed... rare today,
especially so close to a metropolitan area" ; "also unique for it's isolation
and quiet and freedom from urbanized noise pollution" The report points
out the rich mixture of forest plants and trees found atop Bays Mountain.
"Seldom has a single site in one park area displayed so many good features,
so many natural and diverse habitats, such exciting topography, so much
natural beauty...to develope the park as a Nature Conservation Education
Center would give Kingsport a distinction and a uniqueness". One of the
Audubon team members, Robert Holmes became the park's first director.
>>> See 'Building The Dam' in Photographs
>>> See Topography Map Overview
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